Balkans 5

February 2019

5. Start your journey with a few days in Serbia's rambunctious capital, Belgrade. Once you've explored its museums, fortress, smoky cafes and lively bars, take a detour northwest to Novi Sad, the principal city of the nation's multiethnic Vojvodina region. From here it's only a half-hour drive to Fruška Gora National Park; set aside a day for hiking, wine-tasting and expeditions to historic Serbian Orthodox monasteries. Head south to Tara National Park and linger to explore the forested mountains and dramatic Drina River canyon. Cross the border into Bosnia and visit Višegrad, the town immortalised in Ivo Andrić's acclaimed novel The Bridge on the Drina. From here, Sarajevo is due west and worthy of a multi-day stay. Soak up the sights, sounds and tastes of its historic Baščaršija quarter, feasting on burek (filled pastry twists), baklava and Bosnian coffee in the shadow of historic mosques, churches and synagogues. Continue on to sun-scorched Hercegovina, where the highway hugs the emerald-hued Neretva River. Stop in Konjic to see the old stone bridge and secret nuclear bunker, before continuing on to gaze upon the exquisite architectural ensemble that is the Ottoman-era core of Mostar. Pause in Blagaj to visit the peaceful tekke (dervish house) before continuing east to Sutjeska National Park, distinguished by its mountain scenery and extraordinary Partisan memorial. Hop across the Montenegrin border and spend a couple of days hiking and rafting in mountainous Durmitor National Park. One night is enough to get the gist of the modern capital, Podgorica, and allow another to explore the museums and galleries of Old Montenegro's historic capital, Cetinje. From here take the spectacular route through Lovćen National Park and down the precipitous, serpentine road to Kotor – a walled gem positioned within the innermost fold of the fjord-like Bay of Kotor. With Kotor as a base, it's easy to explore the entire bay by boat, bus or car and then pop over to neighbouring Budva on the Adriatic Coast.